Juba from above |
Juba from the ground |
The two nations maintain their prickly symbiotic
relationship with a flow of oil and other mineral resources. South Sudan is
rich with resources and no good way to export them, whereas Sudan is relatively
poor in mineral wealth but has access to a massive port and maintains the
pipelines from the oilfields in the south. I do wonder what will happen if
Kenya makes good on President Kenyatta’s recent pledge to build pipelines
across to South Sudan from their northern coastline. A bit of competition will
be interesting (possibly about as interesting as kicking a hornets nest) but I
would be surprised if it actually happens.
Anyone who has been to countries in this area will be
starkly aware that, no matter their huge mineral wealth, very little of this
trickles its way to the ordinary man on the street (if there is anything
resembling a street). That applies particularly to healthcare. The only
reasonably functioning healthcare facilities I’ve visited have been private
clinics in the capital Juba (which seem to mostly serve foreign technical
staff, businessmen and diplomats) and missionary hospitals out in the sticks
like the town of Yei.
I’ve picked up some extremely sick patients from Juba,
mostly European nationals. The medical staff
there work extremely hard and do a great job despite the limitations. When the stars align
correctly we are probably minimum 4 hours from call-out to bedside in Juba and
considerably more to the smaller airstrips. There is very little critical care
equipment and expertise, so getting seriously ill in South Sudan has a pretty
high mortality. Despite our vaccinations, prophylactic medication, alcohol
cleaning gels and ‘health and safety’ culture, we foreign nationals seem to get
ill or injured quite a lot in these places. One thing I have noticed is we
often do some pretty stupid things. Perhaps this is because we lapse into a
state of false security and stop doing things because they are not routine
practice in the cultures we find ourselves in; like wearing seatbelts or
helmets, not drinking and driving, taking malaria prophylaxis, practicing safe
sex and so on. Or decide that South Sudan is the perfect place to learn how to
ride a motorbike. Enough said.
In the rural town of Yei I was called to evacuate a poor
young lady who was being cared for by the inspirational doctors and nurses
working at the Harvesters ‘Bet Emin’ maternal and paediatric hospital. It is a
missionary hospital and is doing some remarkable work for the local population.
This lady was not pregnant but had been cared for there as she had links to the
charity. She had developed the relatively rare condition known as Guillain
Barre’s syndrome. It is a classically post infective autoimmune, demyelinating,
ascending polyneuropathy. It’s classically associated with outbreaks of
Campylobacter Jejuni gastroenteritis or certain viral respiratory infections
which are nasty enough in their own right, but then, just when you thought you
were getting better, you start losing feeling and strength in your legs. Then
your arms become effected and it starts to creep towards your core, potentially
getting so far as to effect the nerves operating your heart rate, your lungs
and your ability to control your own swallow. It shouldn’t take a medical
degree to work out that, unless you do something for someone whose own immune
system has rendered them paralysed, unable to breathe or swallow, they will not
be long for this world. Luckily in the vast majority of cases, they don’t get
to that stage or if they do, they recover eventually as the little supporting cells
that surround their nerves start to grow back. I’ve seen three cases requiring
intensive care and ventilator support back in the UK and from what I understood
of the medical report, this lady was going to be my forth. But as often happens
with aeromedical cases, the case had considerations far more complex than the
underlying pathological process.
The funding for her treatment was coming from a charity and
I did not know whether they were at all clued up about the potential length of
her ICU stay. If these patients need ICU, it’s often for a long time. Like our
long stay patients with critical illness polyneuropathy, they can sit on the
unit for weeks, even months. Patients and their families luckily do not need to
consider that in the NHS but they do here. It is not an infrequent occurrence
for a patient to ‘stepped down’ prematurely from the ICU to the ward because
the policy will no longer cover or family can no longer pay the bills.
Also this lady was Sudanese with poor English and no
passport. We had got clearance for her but her husband’s clearance was more
problematic. Our window of opportunity was closing fast and we could not
reliably establish whether these things had been taken care of before we
starting loading the plane. The worst case future scenario we could consider
was of a poor lady paralysed on a ventilator without her spouse, unable to
understand those around her and eventually passing away in a foreign country as
her funding ran out.
Fortunately we got word as we touched down on the dirt
airstrip that the charity was committed to the care no matter the length and
her husband would be joining her. This was so far the most rural setting I had
visited since being with AMREF and it was remarkable. The pictures do the
experience more justice than I can. But at that time, with every pothole and
twist of the track, I was more concerned about how I was going to safely get
this lady on a ventilator all the way from the mission hospital to the plane.
Fortunately she had improved and had enough strength and vital capacity to cope
with the trip on only oxygen. Dr Edwards dodges another bullet.
While we assessed and prepared the patient for transport,
the doctors at the hospital gave me a quick tour and even tried to pick my
brain on a few cases. Given these were either post-partum or paediatric cases
(not exactly my forte) I’m afraid they got slim pickings but I suppose it’s
always nice to discuss a case with a colleague. The current medical director Dr
Graham Poole originally trained in Tazmania, has been doing some incredible
work there and kindly took me to see one of his success stories.
I was taken to see a 9 year old lad who had arrived with
them out of the bush about a month ago. Even for a child in one of the poorest
regions on the planet he had his cards stacked against him. His father had
died, his mother was an alcoholic and his frail grandfather was looking after
him. Then he became ill with an expanding growth exuding from the left side of
his face. It had reached the size of a mango by the time his grandfather took
him to seek help. Burkitt’s lymphoma is the most common childhood malignancy in
Africa but you may have never heard of it. From what I remember a combination of
genetic factors in equatorial Africans and environmental factors chronic malnutrition,
malaria, Epstein Barr Virus and HIV, make it extremely prevalent. It responds
well to chemotherapy but that’s in rather short supply in East Africa. His
grandfather was told nothing could be done and, I forget the details, but the
boy disappeared. After a while when he couldn’t be found and given the severity
of his illness, it was assumed that he had died. In fact they even had a
funeral for him in his village. But news of his death had been greatly
exaggerated and, after what must have been days of walking, he arrived alone and
weak at the Harvester’s hospital in Yei.
With little hope of a good outcome given his general
condition, Dr Poole started treating him and a few months later the growth has
completely receded and he is slowly regaining his strength. The picture shows
the facial damage the lymphoma has left in its wake. His grandfather visits
frequently, overjoyed that his grandson managed to make it to someone who could
help.
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